When Adriana Lima was about four months pregnant with her first child last year, Givenchy
called her to walk in the spring 2010 show. "They take my measurements
and I’m like, Oh my God, oh my
God, I'm big!" says Lima, who starred in
the label's fall 2009 campaign. "And then they say, 'You’re not big
enough!' Because they wanted to see the belly."
Pregnancy is no longer a "call us when you're back in shape"
situation for models; just the opposite, in fact. Lima didn't do that
Givenchy show in the end, but Jourdan Dunn's belly was spectacularly emphasized at Jean Paul Gaultier's spring 2010 show, with a custom baby-bump pad strapped around her midsection. This past Fashion Week in Paris, Miranda Kerr walked Balenciaga,
to much fanfare, her six-month bump impossible to miss.
Gisele hit the
runway in June of last year at São Paulo Fashion Week for the label
Colcci, her modest three-month bump clearly visible.
And if they're not in shows, the pregnant ladies are on magazine covers. Claudia Schiffer posed proudly, entirely nude, clasping her very pregnant belly for a stunning German Vogue cover earlier this year. Kerr did a cover shoot at six and a half months pregnant for January's Australian Vogue.
And Alessandra Ambrosio,
who gave birth to her first child in August 2008, says she turned down
cover offers when she was pregnant, preferring to relax at home in
Brazil.
Ambrosio thinks the fresh wave of attention stems from
skinny-teenager fatigue. "Every six months you're going to see something
different [in fashion]," she notes. "I think the world was like, 'We
want to see healthier women in the magazines, on the runway.'"
While thin models will always be the norm in fashion, it's notable
that an industry so obsessed with skinny has not only become more
accepting of the bump but also actually celebrates motherhood (of
supermodels, at least) by casting pregnant women for some of fashion's
biggest stages.
Elle creative director Joe Zee, who put Cindy Crawford nude on the cover of W
while she was pregnant in June of 1999, thinks the industry has started
treating pregnant models as normal. "In the past, probably, editors
just didn’t know how to address pregnant models," he said. "I don’t want
to say it’s become a glamorous thing — it’s just become part of it. If
anything, they’re being treated not different, not special. Just because
they’re pregnant doesn’t mean they can’t work. If it fits into the
story, if it fits into the idea if she’s just a beautiful girl, why
not?" He didn't think Balenciaga
cast Kerr for the spring 2011 show for shock value. "I think it’s less
about 'how do we work her in?'
It’s just that 'Miranda’s so beautiful I
must have her on the runway. She’s pregnant? Let’s work around it
because she’s gorgeous.'"
"From an agent’s point of view, I think it’s amazing. What better way
to herald being a beautiful woman than being pregnant?" says Stephen
Lee, an agent at Next Models. "To be able to be a mother in this
industry is (a) tough and (b) commendable. You have the travel, the
hours, and to still maintain a career [is not easy]."
Many models have become accustomed to working pregnancy smoothly into
their careers. Lima went back to work soon after having her daughter,
Valentina, a year ago; her first job, in fact, was the critically
acclaimed fall 2009 Louis Vuitton show,
praised as a necessary celebration of womanhood and a welcome deviation
from the industry's obsession with juveniles.
Lima, her generous
post-pregnancy bosom spilling out of her black lace dress, walked the
runway alongside fellow mom-models Elle Macpherson, Laetitia Casta, and Karolina Kurkova — who'd just given birth to her first child as well. Gisele shot a swimwear campaign two months after the birth of her first child, returning to the runway a few months after that. Heidi Klum had her fourth child last
October, and walked in the Victoria's Secret fashion show just a few weeks later. Jourdan Dunn walked in London Fashion Week
in February after having her first child in December. Ambrosio gave
birth to her daughter Anja in August 2008; in November she was back on the Victoria's Secret runway.
"It’s trending away from that 15- or 16-year-old, super-skinny girl,
plucked out of school and is probably not going back to school to see
how they do in modeling," said one of the industry's top casting
directors, who did not want to be named. She pointed to rising star Arizona Muse, a young mom who took a break from modeling to have a baby and then opened and closed Prada's
spring 2011 show — the Holy Grail of modeling work. "I think people are
more interested in girls that are a little bit more well-rounded. The
girls that have had a boyfriend or finished school or traveled the
world," this agent continued. "Fashion can attract a lot of crazies,
particularly with models and casting directors. [If you're a mom] you
have a life and you have a balance, and you have a little bit more
perspective in the craziness of this industry."
As Lima says, "I feel more confident and I feel more beautiful, you
know? I feel womanly now, not like a child, and that’s a wonderful
thing." Ambrosio confirms — "I think you get more relaxed with your
career because it’s not the most important thing" — and says clients
detect a change in her:
"You have someone to take care of, you share
your life."
Casting agent Jennifer Vindetti, the owner of JV8 Inc., which has worked on runway shows and campaigns with clients including Dolce & Gabbana and Tommy Hilfiger,
says her clients are generally not looking to cast pregnant models
outside of maternity shoots, but they are increasingly hot for new moms.
After the women have babies, she posits, they see modeling, with all
its inherent criticism, as a job, rather than the definition of who they
are: “In modeling, you’re looking to other people to define yourself
because that’s the job,” she explains. But "probably for someone who
makes money based on how they look or on their body, it brings a kind of
deeper connection."
Motherhood may even make models more commercial, since the women who
can afford the goods they're selling are, in all likelihood, in the mom
years themselves and find it easier to connect to a mom, even if she is
impossibly beautiful. Well, maybe until they start talking about how the models didn't even need to buy maternity clothes.
No comments:
Post a Comment